These are
some personal musings from my recent stay in Palestine. Others can and have recorded the
history, this is something different.
- We are walking on the ramparts
of the old city of Jerusalem, ahead of us a middle aged woman
shouts, in English, abuse at a man in a garden below us. She is accusing
him of throwing rubbish onto the old Ottoman walls, she is probably right.
He swears back at her. She looks at us, expecting support, she has heard
us speaking and knows we speak English, she speaks to us. I turn my
shoulder and blank her; normally I would have agreed with her. But this is
his quarter of the city, he sees her as the other, an interloper, despite
the rubbish we know he is right, it is his city, and he may do as he pleases.
- We are walking through the old
quarter of Nablus; our guide shows us photos of a
family on a wall. They were killed when the occupying force thought that
one of theirs had been killed by someone in the house, so they all died.
The last time I saw photos like this was in a village high in the Apennines in Italy, there a whole village had been
killed by the occupying force when someone in the village had killed one
of the occupiers. Plus ca change, plus c’est the meme chose.
- Now we are in an olive grove,
high above the Jordan valley, the land below us is
rich alluvial soil; in this climate it could sustain two crops a year. But
the people whose land it is may not irrigate, so only one crop can be
taken, wheat or maize and the vegetable which could have been grown must
be imported. Meanwhile the occupiers, in their new properties high on the
hill tops, have lawns and swimming pools. Anywhere in the Middle East that sort of use of water would
be profligate, like the green ornamental shrubs I saw in Dubai being irrigated, but here it is
wicked beyond belief.
- As we walk along a short stretch
of road a young conscript jumps out of his jeep, he is almost young enough
to be my grandson. He is not quite sure who we are, so he cautions us to
be careful. I resist the temptation to ask him if there are lions around,
as all the local people couldn’t be more friendly.
- After a picnic lunch we visit
one of the few water treatment plants that are allowed by the occupiers.
One of the men treats us to an impromptu concert; the style in which he is
singing comes from medieval Andalucia when the Moors ruled in southern Spain. It is ironic that in those
‘barbaric’ times all three Abrahimic faiths lived in a sort of peaceful
co-existence, rare today indeed.
- Two days later we are in Bethlehem, standing by a Banksy cartoon,
which happens to be on a very big wall, odd how the height of the houses
in the old ghetto of Venice look very like a wall too. I
wonder why this wall makes me think of that? I think of other walls I have seen,
Hadrian’s Wall, the Berlin Wall, the former now a tourist destination, the
later crumbled into dust, one day here too………
- We return to Jerusalem on a local bus, our large
suitcases in the place under the bus for big items. The soldiers of the
occupation get on at a check point, they look at our passports and wish us
good day, no one and no machine has checked our cases; clearly this is not
a security check, but a system of control and humiliation. We’ve lived in London, we know what a security check
it. Or is it a form of profiling, we are elderly and not Arab, we have
seen profiling in London too, we know what it looks
like.
- Later in the souk, there are
soldiers of the occupation perhaps
two hundred metres apart, the souk is crowded, one could do a lot of
damage before they could stop you, so what is their point, simply that
they can?
- Finally I am at the airport.
There is a huge water feature, water spraying up from the ground and down
from the ceiling, I am sure it is recycled, but what a mockery of the country
which I have just left, where water can be turned off at the whim of the
occupying power. I spend no money, but drink a lot of the (free) water and
childishly flush a lot of toilets.
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taking the message to Palestine.
Can you see the bullet hole in the
top right hand corner? This is the
entrance to the Church of the Nativity |
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this mosque is opposite
the Church of the Nativity
in Bethlehem |
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| that wall |